All the Difference
Details are in the distinction of Café Dupont.
By Jan Walsh
Our history with Café Dupont goes back a couple of decades. Kev and I escaped the world for romantic lunches and dinners at its original Springville location. It was just far enough away to enjoy both the ride and the restaurant. As newlyweds we could not get enough of each other and this place. And we were captivated by the cuisine. From the front of the house, we never saw the kitchen. Thus, we never met the talented sous chef, Chef Chris Evans, who plated the perfection we enjoyed.
Since that time, I have been in many kitchens covering chefs and dined at hundreds of tables reviewing restaurants. Thus, my perspective is no longer naïve. Today I better understand and appreciate what it takes to execute this level of excellence consistently… For every meal and experience we enjoy, the front and back of the house staff gave that day of their lives for it.
Evans gave many years of his life to Café Dupont. And today he is the executive chef, and co-owner with his wife, Angela, a pastry chef with her own career in education. As the keystone of the café Chef Chris’ attention to detail and pursuit of perfection are evident in all things. From gas lantern to the flickering candle on each table, the attentive valet in waiting to seasoned line cooks, courses of amuse-bouche to salt and pepper presentation, selection of local ingredients to the recipes developed, it is the details that define Café Dupont.
Our “mouths are amused” by our first amuse-bouche, a savory bite that whets our appetites. From the featured cocktails, we choose Sparkling Peach Shrub for Kev and a Dirty Dupont Martini for me. The peaches in the shrub of Kev’s cocktail are sourced from Hazelrig Orchard, in Cleveland, AL. Having grown up in Blount County, I have known three generations of the Hazelrigs, for 50+ years. And thanks to The Market at Pepper Place, I still shop for their peaches and part with Hazelrig hugs. In Kev’s thirst-quenching, light and refreshing cooler the peach syrup shines in a fruity synthesis with Cava, Hennessy VS, Lillet Rose, and lemon on the rocks. My tini is shaken with oil washed Chopin Vodka, along with Chazalettes Bianco Vermouth, brine, and a pickled quail egg garnish. The oil washing adds a richness to the flavorful Chopin Vodka. Bianco lends a hint of sweetness and floral notes. And the brine accentuates the sweet and savory counterparts, while balancing the bitterness. Dirty martinis are a favorite cocktail of mine, but this one is beyond compare!
As we sip our drinks we also nibble on scrumptious sourdough from our favorite bakery, Birmingham Breadworks, and look over the menu. Chef Chris treats us to starters of our choice. Kev selects Cornmeal Crusted Green Tomatoes and Grilled Chilled Shrimp. And although I am tempted by the, new to the menu, Pan Seared Smoked Duck Breast, home cooking calls my name with Grilled Hazelrig Farm Peach and Heirloom Tomato Salad. Kev’s crisp and golden tomatoes tower over a creamy bed of house remoulade. Succulent Gulf shrimp crown the dish. Fresh, grilled sweet corn and lady pea relish finish this savory melding of summer flavors and textures. My peach and tomato salad is a plated masterpiece. With precise precision, atop a creamy goat cheese mousse, wedges of heirloom tomatoes, slices of grilled peaches, and the prettiest red onion ever are artfully arranged into a feast for the eyes. This marvelous melange of flavors and textures complements by contrast.
Next we are treated by our server, Brandon, who is also the bar and beverage manager to French Gimlets, the house’s signature cocktail. A concoction of Empress 1908 Gin, St. Germaine, and lime is also as good as it looks. Butterfly pea blossom lends indigo pigmentation to the gin and the drink. The gin’s botanicals blend beautifully with the elderflower liqueur in this icy delight.
For entrees, Kev opts for the Grilled Smoked Ribeye and I order Pan Seared Large Sea Scallops. Before our entrees arrive Brandon also provides a fruity cantaloupe palate cleansing amuse-bouche. The steak arrives sizzling and glistening. It is generous in portion, and cooked to order, and topped with black garlic compound butter. Accompanying the tender, juicy and well marbled steak is a comforting potato gratin and broccolini, all in rich veal reduction that rounds out the plate.
My large, delicate scallops are golden on top and white and pristine inside. They melt in the mouth with clean ocean flavor. Grounding the scallops are a country ham and okra risotto with caper beurre blanc. The creamy risotto envelopes bites of smoky, salty country ham and farm fresh okra lending grassy notes. And although Chef must forgo the cornmeal crusted oyster mushrooms on my plate due to allergy, not a thing is missing in this plateful of my favorite foods.
I pair the dish with Vincent Gaudry Melodie de Vieilles Vignes 2022. Vincent Gaudry has been handcrafting wine in the Loire River Valley for more that three decades, a domaine established by his grandfather. He began converting to organic farming in 1995 and earned organic certification in 2022. His efforts are on display in this elegant, superb Sancerre, boasting complex layers of pear, citrus, lime, and quince, with a long finish. And Café Dupont thoughtfully offers this lovely Sancerre by the taste, glass, and bottle.
We finish by sharing Classic Butter Cake for dessert. Bursting with fruity goodness of strawberry and blackberry compote, the cake is moist, tender, and buttery. Fresh berries, cream, and peach ice cream made with Hazelrig peaches encircle the cake with creaminess and fruitiness. And the almond brittle is the cherry on top, bringing a touch of whimsy and nutty texture.
Some things never change. Kev and I will always be like newlyweds, still in love with Café Dupont. As the sun sets, before we give up our window table for the next reservation, whomever it might be… Brandon treats us to our final amuse-bouche, dark chocolate.
Download Birmingham Restaurants App
Copyright ©2024 Birmingham Restaurants