Blue Skies
Escaping the weather with an early birthday lunch on Chez Fonfon’s patio
By Jan Walsh
Almost every year it rains on my birthday! Even when we travel for my birthday, somehow the clouds follow. Year after year, since a little girl, I have looked out the window watching it rain out my birthday plans... playing outside, riding my pony, or picking early strawberries in my bonnet. But don’t cry for me because on these rainy days I was treated to shopping trips. My favorite spot was the ladies’ hat department at Loveman’s department store, trying on all the hats too big for my little head. And I have dreamed of a silk sash such as this ever since. So, I turn off the weatherman and reserve lunch, for a sunny day this week, on the patio at Chez Fonfon.
Kev and I are the first guests seated in this country French escape. And for a brief time, we have it all to ourselves.
The Stitt Restaurant Group’s restaurants are known for their curated selection of wines chosen for each menu, and for their servers’ expertise pairings. From Fonfon’s list, we toast with a bottle of Crémant du Jura H. Clavelin Brut. The wine is served at appropriate temp in Champagne flutes. It has the mousse and consistent effervescence of Champagne. Lovely notes of citrus and stone fruit please our palates. Highly recommended!
To pair with the wine, the kitchen treats us to Sweet Pea Tartine. Atop toasted bread and a creamy ricotta, a generous layer of sweet peas are enhanced by crisp radish and mint. Delightful! One of my favorite annual spring dishes, Jumbo Asparagus is also a must. As Kev sees it, he wishes he had ordered one too. So, I share. Even though they are jumbo, never are the asparagus tough due to Fonfon’s technique of shaving the asparagus to lessen the fibrousness results in a more tender plant. The fork tender asparagus boast a bittersweet grassiness that is balanced by the creaminess of farm egg vinaigrette and watercress. Excellent!
From the les grands plats, Kev orders his favorite, Croque Madame with fried egg. Croque comes from the French verb “croquer” or ``to bite.''
And the egg croque is said to resemble a madame’s hat… how fitting! I have the chaque jour, Sheepshead Fish from the Gulf of America. Kev always enjoys the egg being sandwiched between two layers of ham, rather than open face, knife and fork style. In addition to the egg, this golden, comforting ham and cheese sandwich is also dressed up with its classic sauce that binds everything together. And he substitutes scrumptious roasted potatoes for frites. My fish is presented in a three-piece portion atop spring vegetable ragout. The fish is firm and sweet. And the array of potato, onion, peas, and carrots bursting with spring round out this fresh fish dish. Highly recommended!
For dessert, I can’t resist the Valrhona Chocolate Cake. Our server, Caroline offers to pair it with a dessert wine. And she wisely selects Banyuls Domaine du Mas Blanc, Collioure.
From a domaine that dates to 1632 this fortified wine with notes of caramel, raisin, and black cherry is the perfect match for this decadent cake. From the chocolate pearls atop to the Luxardo Cherries alongside, this is the ultimate cake for a little girl whose birthday cake was always chocolate.
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