Downtown Destination
Bistro 218 is a diamond in the Birmingham dining scene.
By Jan Walsh
Downtown Birmingham has been a special place to me since I was a child. Like the old song, “… where all the lights are bright.” As a girl I loved to ride the escalators and try on ladies’ hats at Loveman’s. At Burger Phillips, my friends and I bought prom and pageant gowns. Blachs was THE place for shoes, displayed in their storefront window displays that wrapped around the building. It was the Saks of its day. Before I was old enough to drive, I fulfilled my fetish for shoes, buying shopping bags full on my mother’s Blachs card. At the payment window where I presented the card, the shoe salesman nodded, smiling, and vouching, that he had known me since I was born, to a stern, number crunching lady, who grudgingly allowed me to sign the receipt. Downtown also brought Town into my County life with rock concerts, off Broadway plays musicals, the Iron Bowl, and more. Yet among my most fond downtown memories are restaurants long since gone, including my beloved Joy Young and La Paree.
Through the decades since downtown Birmingham’s restaurant scene has evolved to include fine dining jewels, such as Bistro 218. Tonight, as the valet opens my door, I step my suede Prada out of the car and look up the street longingly towards Blachs Condominiums. Inside “the music of the traffic in the city,” is muffled by French music. Seated at “our” window table with big city views, we toast the town with signature, seasonal cocktails.
The wine selection is procured by Wine Director and Certified Sommelier, Carlos Cisneros. He is also the director and sommelier at Bistro 218’s sister restaurant, Bocca Ristorante. From the wine list and from one of France’s oldest brands, we select J.C. Calvet Brut Rosè Crémant. This nonvintage bubbly from Bourgogne, Bordeaux was made in the traditional method of Cab Franc and Merlot. Aromatic notes of grapefruit, strawberry, raspberry, and biscuit tickle the nose with intense effervescence and the palate with light fruity flavors.
Bistro 218’s dinner menu boasts tried and true favorites and seasonal finds. From the Starters, we can’t resist, and never have, House Cured Pork Belly and Maryland Style Crab Cakes.
Shh! Don’t tell Chef we ordered them again. Although these two have been on the menu since Chef Tom Saab opened the doors, they just get better with time, as he evolves Bistro’s cuisine. Saab and wife, Christina are owners of Bistro 218, Bocca, and Sloan’s, all located in downtown Birmingham. Tonight’s version of the pork belly is served atop McEwen’s Yellow Grits with farm egg and gastrique. On first cut, orange yolk glistens onto the rich, brick of pork, crisp on the outside and melt in the mouth tender on the inside. And the creamy grits add balance the dish with starchy comfort. Tonight’s crab cakes have a golden, more firmly breaded, crust than previous ones. Yet the same succulent crab bursting forth on first cut, along with Chef Tom’s magic flavors that have kept this dish famously evolving.
Among the Specialties, Kev selects Bistro Steak Frites. I can always count on Bistro 218 to have a fresh Gulf catch on the menu… And I opt for Blackened Wild Louisiana Redfish. Both dishes are representative of the restaurant’s Classical French with New Orleans influences style. Kev’s entree is a meat and potatoes man pleaser. The tender, juicy steak is served sliced in sauce chasseur, adding earthiness and moisture. The steak slices encircle a generous mound of piping hot, golden frites interlacing each other like ribbons. Each bite of these fabulous frites, cooked in peanut oil, call for another. But even with my help, he cannot eat them all. Indeed, size matters, and Bistro 218 never skimps on anything including portion. My big catch is no exception. The fish is substantial in size and exceptional in quality and freshness. This pristine fish’s mild sweetness shines through the scrumptious, spicy preparation. Red fish is also healthy: high in protein and omega-3 fatty acids, vitamins, and minerals. It floats atop the same McEwen Grits as the pork belly yet the white butter wine sauce takes it to a new level. And whole pod fried okra is the crowning glory. I would come for the okra. Highly recommended!
For dessert we can’t agree. So, no sharing tonight. Kev has the in-season Apple Gateau. Chocolate is always in season for me… Chocolate Olive Oil Cake. His gateau has dense layers of apples with a crisp top. It is enhanced by coffee ice cream, vanilla sauce, and a lovely apple cider glaze. My dark chocolaty cake is over the top moist, airy, and spongy. It is paired with the cutest little maple pot de crème and glazed pecans. This decadent dessert has it all: chocolate, cream, and crunch. Until next time, downtown… “No finer place for sure.”
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