Asheville, North Carolina moves forward while preserving the past.
By Jan Walsh
It is exciting to watch Asheville, North Carolina progress, while respecting and restoring pieces of its past. On this, my third trip to Asheville in the past seven years, the evolution is immediately evident.
On previous trips I had found Biltmore Village a maze of historic, peddle-dash homes—of the 1890s, which once belonged to George Vanderbilt—juxtaposed with newer, less appealing buildings. Yet times are changing. Arriving into town after a lovely drive up the scenic Blue Ridge Parkway, the first glimpse is a hotel rising—under construction—on the previous location of a service station. Across the street is a new (Bitlmore-styled) Starbucks. A whole block of unfortunate buildings have also been replaced by their betters—replicas of the charming pebble-dash homes—with upscale stores, such as Williams Sonoma. And across the street more demolition of buildings, which do not fit the architectural style of the village, is in the plans to make way for more upscale shopping.
Every trip to Ashville includes a visit to America’s largest home, the Biltmore House, the former family home of Vanderbilt and his wife Edith. This 250 room French Renaissance château opened to friends on Christmas Eve 1895. And today original art from the masters, 16th-century tapestries, a 10,000 volume library, 70-foot ceilings, 65 fireplaces, an indoor pool, bowling alley, and priceless antiques including Napoleon's chess set are among its treasures.
The house is surrounded by gardens, 8,000 acres, America’s most visited winery, and Biltmore Inn—the place to stay for a trip to visit the mansion. Awarded Four Stars by Mobil Travel Guide, Four Diamonds by AAA, Biltmore Inn boasts a rimless, outdoor pool and hot tub, a fitness center, library, and a fine dining restaurant. Outdoor activities range from mountain biking to carriage rides. Accommodations include guestrooms, king deluxe rooms, and the ultimate Biltmore experience—Biltmore Cottage—a private two-bedroom, two-bath personal cottage where a butler attends to every need. All guest rooms include numerous amenities and a complimentary shuttle for guests to and from Biltmore House, Winery and River Bend Farm.
Breakfast at Biltmore Inn is a must, whether on the patio or in the dining room. Both offer spectacular views of the Blue Ridge Mountains steeped in early morning fog. From fruit to custom ordered omelets, the buffet is the order of the day. There is also a breakfast menu for those who prefer such offerings as Eggs Benedict and more. After breakfast I enjoy a brief walk down the hill from the inn to the winery, alongside a vineyard bursting with Cabernet Sauvignon grapes. Afterwards I enjoy a private tour of the—most visited winery in America—and a private tasting with winemaker Bernard Delille, who has been making wines at Biltmore for 22 years.
A mid afternoon meal is enjoyed at Fig, located in Biltmore Village. Owners Treavis and Traci Taylor offer authentic bistro cuisine prepared by French-trained Chef William Klein. The restaurant’s wine list is predominately French, pairing perfectly with Klein’s cuisine. Dining al fresco is available on this quaint bistro’s shady courtyard. Inside the bistro achieves a European ambience with classic bistro tables, with wooden tabletops handmade by Taylor. Rather than ordering from the lunch menu, which looks almost too good to pass up—Klein offers to serve a tasting menu that reflects the bistro’s cuisine, paired with wines. Who could resist? From the appetizer menu arrives a divine Tomato Gazpacho with Dijon ice cream paired with Garreliere Sauvignon Blanc 2006. Next is a beautiful match of Rosé Travel 2006 with Watermelon Salad. Thick, juicy slices of melon are topped with thin slices of manchego cheese and finished with arugula and spicy vinaigrette. Entrée pairings begin with a Wellington Chardonnay 2006 served with Pork Belly and Seared Scallop, atop a corn and tomato relish. And just when I was ready to ask about the name, Fig, comes Foppiano Petite Sirah RRV 2004 with tender, medium rare Berkshire pork tenderloin and perfectly pickled figs with a sherry jus. For the finale Klein serves a delightful, homemade blueberry sorbet with fresh blueberries.
A mid afternoon meal is enjoyed at Fig, located in Biltmore Village. Owners Treavis and Traci Taylor offer authentic bistro cuisine prepared by French-trained Chef William Klein. The restaurant’s wine list is predominately French, pairing perfectly with Klein’s cuisine. Dining al fresco is available on this quaint bistro’s shady courtyard. Inside the bistro achieves a European ambience with classic bistro tables, with wooden tabletops handmade by Taylor. Rather than ordering from the lunch menu, which looks almost too good to pass up—Klein offers to serve a tasting menu that reflects the bistro’s cuisine, paired with wines. Who could resist? From the appetizer menu arrives a divine Tomato Gazpacho with Dijon ice cream paired with Garreliere Sauvignon Blanc 2006. Next is a beautiful match of Rosé Travel 2006 with Watermelon Salad. Thick, juicy slices of melon are topped with thin slices of manchego cheese and finished with arugula and spicy vinaigrette. Entrée pairings begin with a Wellington Chardonnay 2006 served with Pork Belly and Seared Scallop, atop a corn and tomato relish. And just when I was ready to ask about the name, Fig, comes Foppiano Petite Sirah RRV 2004 with tender, medium rare Berkshire pork tenderloin and perfectly pickled figs with a sherry jus. For the finale Klein serves a delightful, homemade blueberry sorbet with fresh blueberries.
The second day is dedicated to touring Biltmore House—from the outside in. A carriage ride with Belgium horses, …and Tat, takes us through the forest behind the house for glorious views of the property. Then back to the house, a snack of divine Champagne chocolate truffles from the Confectionery replaces lunch to make time for private and public tours, including the rooftop tour and behind the scenes tour of rooms yet to be restored.
Tonight we drive downtown to Mark Rosenstein’s The Market Place, located on Wall Street. Entering the white table cloth restaurant from the outdoor patio—into the bar area—the ambience is warm and welcoming. Golden mustard and rust tones contrast with coolness of marble and walls and metal fish sculptures hanging from the ceiling. The main dining spaces are nooks that meander around the space.
Local products are the focus of Rosenstein’s menus. So dinner begins with a glass of Jean-Luc Joillot Brut Cremant de Bourgogne sparkling wine paired with three lovely appetizers: Tomato Trio, Rabbit Legs and Blackberry Tart, and an artisan Cheese Plate. Being a “tomato-holic,” I quickly eat my way down this row of tomatoes—heirloom tomato salad, chilled tomato soup and pickled tomatoes. The rabbit’s accompaniment of a blackberry and spring onion tart is divine in and of itself. And the selection of three local cheeses are North Carolina natives, from Spinning Spider Creamery. Rosenstein masterfully matches accompaniments for each. Stackhouse is served with roasted beets. Chevre goat cheese is topped with pickled fennel. And best of the bunch is Peppercorn Bouche with strawberry jam.
A bottle of Domaine Vacheron Sancerre Sauvignon Blanc 2007 is paired with entrees of roasted North Carolina Grouper and pan seared Sunburst Farm Red Trout. The grouper dish could have been “scripted” for my palate, with its accompanying tomato confit, saffron roasted potatoes, olives and braised baby fennel. The dish’s juices fill the bottom of the plate making a light yet comforting gravy for the fish and vegetables. The trout is also a treat. It is salmon in color and sits on a foundation of corn fritter, with a summer squash slaw and arugula coulis topping it off.
For dessert we plan ahead and order the Soufflé of the Day, served with shortbread cookie. Our server carefully cuts a slice in the top of the piping hot soufflé and pours peach anglaise inside—ending the evening with yet another perfect bite.
Traveling home the following day I need no excuse for another trip to Asheville. But I do have a reason. In 2009 the bedroom where Vanderbilt’s daughter, Cornelia—and later her two sons—were born will be unveiled. I plan to be there!