Wide Net
A variety of fresh catches for lunch and dinner at Bistro V.
By Jan Walsh
Bistro V is one of my favorite restaurants. Locally owned by Chef Jeremy Downey and partner and pastry chef, Emily Tuttle Shell, Bistro V is open for lunch and dinner. Originally from the “Seafood Capitol of Alabama,” Bayou La Batre (with family still there who can make fresh seafood runs) Chef Jeremy keeps several seafood options on the menu, including a daily special.
On this freezing day, with snow still lining the streets, Chef Jeremy is offering his famous “Roux Tide Gumbo” as one of today’s specials. This former University of Alabama football player often wears his 1992 National Championship ring while making it. Kev and I each order a “small” bowl because we know the small bowl is a regular or large bowl by most chefs’ standards. Our long-time favorite gumbo arrives (to our favorite corner window table) piping hot. It is crowned with fresh crab and is brimming with Gulf shrimp, spicy sausage, and Alabama okra. The hearty gumbo is layered with deep, rich, nutty flavors that warm and nourish the soul.
We pair the gumbo with Bistro V’s warm, honey butter bread. And given it is Kev’s birthday week I toast him with Cremant de Bourgogne Rosé Brut. This 100 percent Cote d’Or Pinot Noir comes from 40-year-old vines, and aged 20 months on the lees. It boasts blood orange and red berry notes and is light and lively at 12.5 percent alcohol.
For main courses, Kev orders the Grilled Shrimp Plate, and I opt for today’s special, Red Snapper over Grit Cake. He substitutes fries for mashed potatoes. Bistro V’s slaw also accompanies this generous portion of shrimp. Chef Jeremy’s attention to detail is exemplified in this crunchy slaw. Like none other, I call it sweet and sour slaw because it is both creamy and sweet, yet balanced with acidity, a unique synthesis that is not easily achieved. It brightens the succulent, pink, shrimp curled and grilled to perfection. There are not many restaurants that serve shrimp of this quality. So, if you are a shrimp lover, head over to Bistro V.
My lovely snapper is crisp and golden on top and white, shiny, and pristine inside. The fish sings with freshness, whispering its fish tale of mild sweetness. The grit cake stands tall like a dock on the water, buoying the beautiful fish. And the luscious mix of veggies in a creamy sauce rounds out the dish.
Other seafood dishes include crab cakes, seafood bisque, seafood pastas, shrimp or scallops and grits, oyster plate, and po boys. Yet Chef Jeremy pleases all with a cheeseburger and roast beef sandwich for lunch and his hand cut, filet mignon for dinner.
For dessert, we split Emily’s Strawberry Shortcake. The scrumptious warm cake is studded with fresh, strawberries, like rubies in a jewel box. And fresh whipped cream crowns the cake, adding creaminess. Another long-time favorite of ours that is consistently and simply divine, as are all her sweets.
Never skip. A meal at Bistro V is incomplete without Emily’s dessert!
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