Reviews

Silver Lining

Tonight’s dinner at Blueprint comes with a light show.

By Jan Walsh


Dark clouds loom as we approach Blueprint on 3rd. And big raindrops bounce off the windshield. Looking down at my (only pair of) Manolo Blahnik sandals, I sigh. But “… it won't be long till happiness steps up to greet me…” The valet opens my door under an umbrella. And restaurateur, Dean Robb quickly welcomes us inside, saving my silk shoes.

Seated at our favorite window table, Dean treats us to bubbly just as the storm rolls in. Bolts of lightning streak from cloud to ground. Thunderclaps burst into booms. And raindrops rapidly form into sheets, falling in a deluge. Through the dewy windows we watch cars splashing by in the driving rain. The restaurant is aglow with candlelight inside and lightning outside creating a serendipitous ambience.

As we sip our bubbles, we catch up with Dean and son, Brandon. I wish I could bottle the positive energy of these two smiling faces. Nothing, much less a thunderstorm at opening hour, dampens their joy. And it spills over onto the staff, who boast the same happy vibe.

Looking over the menu we select Farmer’s Market Salad and Seafood Tower. The succotash style salad is a mix of juicy vine ripe tomatoes, raw yellow corn, crisp cucumber, earthy field peas, and creamy, thick ricotta cheese. Tossed in a vibrant vinaigrette that brightens with a pungent acidity, each morsel wakes the senses. Unlike most seafood towers that are built to share, Blueprint’s tower is perfect for one… me! Poached Royal Red Shrimp anchor this delightful dish on a pool of luscious pineapple agave aioli. With a texture and flavor profile more like lobster than shrimp, Royal Reds have been my longtime favorite, since I discovered them decades ago on trips to the Gulf Coast. The cylindrical stack starts with sushi grade tuna cut into poke style cubes. Next is a generous layer of succulent crabmeat. Crowning the top is pineapple salsa. I have never had fresher tuna, crab, and shrimp. And the pineapple, upside and down, accent the seafood with sunny color and vibrant, juicy flavors. Catch it if you can!

For entrees Kev opts for Grilled Pork Tenderloin “Grillades.” And making my own rainbow, I order the Grilled Rainbow Trout. Blueprint’s grillades beat Brennan’s! Chef Huck’s tenderloin is topped with a beautiful bacon-apricot jam, which perks the savoriness of the pork with its glistening goodness. Rounding out this comforting dish are fresh corn, green beans, and sweet potatoes. My trout is grilled butterflied with skin on bottom and served with a vibrant smoked bacon-tomato vinaigrette. Each bite of this mild, sweet fish is enhanced with its veggies of grilled okra and roasted potatoes bursting with farm freshness.

Dessert is always special at Blueprint on 3rd. And with 10 options it is difficult to choose. Yet the in-season Peach and Blueberry Cobbler calls our names. Generous and sharable in portion, the scoop of vanilla ice cream creates a warm cold dessert. Its creaminess melts into the golden crisp, and melds with the warm peaches and baked berries. If you miss your grandmother’s cobbler, hurry in before the season ends. As we depart, the storm is over. I walk deftly down the sidewalk to the car, avoiding puddles in the street… “Nothing’s worrying me.”

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